This Is Water

Midnight was the time I laid my head down on a pillow after a long drive through the forest, to a remote location on the South Coast of Western Australia. 

With a large swell predicted the next day and gravel protruding through the thin layer of foam between me and the ground it was going to be a rough nights sleep, before getting into a freezing cold wetsuit and heading out into the Southern Ocean as daylight broke. 

Regardless of the challenging environment there is an unspeakable allure to coming here. A sense of peace being amongst the elements with no one around. The knowledge that there are ridiculously thick slabs of water creating some of the most beautiful displays of live art one could ever witness, drive me to the lengths that I have to go to to witness moments such as this. 

This Is Water.